Sustainability articles | TenCate Protective Fabrics

Closing the loop: advancing circularity in protective textiles

Written by Martine Kok | Jun 1, 2024 10:00:00 AM

At TenCate Protective Fabrics, we understand that achieving true circularity in textiles requires more than individual action—it demands full value chain collaboration. In 2024, we engaged in a discovery process to explore the role we play, and the role we could play, in the development of circular protective fabrics. This work is foundational to building future systems that integrate recycled content while maintaining the high standards of performance and protection expected from our products.

Today’s recycled fibers present significant technical challenges. Circular materials often lack the strength and consistency of virgin materials. As a result, we must focus our expertise on overcoming these barriers. Our teams areactively exploring how to blend, spin, weave, dye, and finish recycled materials to deliver the quality and reliability end users expect. Our role is not just technical—we also serve as a connector, linking recycled solution qualities with end-user requirements. This allows us to guide the development of circular products that are viable for real-world applications.

Our work is part of a broader value chain effort. In partnership with other consortium members, we are analyzing how end-of-life garments can be collected, sorted, processed, and reintegrated into the manufacturing cycle. This collaborative approach is vital because no single player can achieve textile circularity in isolation.

Understanding that circularity requires collective effort across the value chain, our teams actively contribute insights to industry-wide platforms. For example, TenCate Protective Fabrics participated alongside other members at the 2024 European Textile Services Association (ETSA) Congress, where circularity in textile services was a central focus. Shared platforms like ETSA illustrate how our industry is actively collaborating—sharing knowledge, aligning priorities, and building momentum.

While today’s circular materials may be more expensive and often of lower quality, we recognize the importance of building technical and manufacturing capabilities now. This is especially true given the evolving legislative landscape.

The EU Green Deal and its Circular Economy Action Plan, including Product Passports and eco-design requirements, signal that circularity is not optional—it’s an inevitable part of the future of textiles. Preparing for this future allows us and our partners to meet these emerging demands with readiness and confidence.

By deepening our understanding of recycled fibers and investing in circular design processes, we lay the groundwork for a textile system that reduces waste and meets performance needs. This is not a short-term solution, but a necessary evolution for protective fabrics and the industries we serve.

To help drive the shift toward circularity, TenCate Protective Fabrics is proud to be part of two forward-looking EU initiatives launched in 2024:

1. Workwear on a Circular Mission

Led by MVO Nederland, this funded project unites producers, suppliers, brands, and recyclers to co-develop a fully circular work trouser made with recycled materials. The initiative not only encourages the responsible collection of used workwear but also helps establish a new market where textiles containing recycled fiber content are actively procured.

Notably, the Dutch government’s central procurement agency for workwear (CBR) has already committed to adopting these circular work trousers. TenCate Protective Fabrics serves as the knowledge partner for fabric design and manufacturing, contributing expertise across the entire value chain.

2. WorkAware

Led by the Saxion University of Applied Sciences, this research project explores how to integrate mechanically recycled fibers into fabric design without compromising quality. Aligned with the Netherlands’ 2050 Circular Economy Goals, it focuses on maintaining the performance of workwear by studying the impact of recycled fibers on yarn quality and identifying ways to offset losses in functionality.

A collaborative approach is vital because no single player can achieve textile circularity in isolation.